The New Stone Age

FASCINATION for adornment of self is as old as the history of mankind. Jewellery design for centuries has been the domain of artisans who gained and passed on the expertise to their progeny. The Indian gem and jewellery industry accounts for nearly 43 percent of the world's total exports and is the second major foreign exchange earner for the country. Master craftsmen with their own distinctive and traditional designs and patterns have raptured not just the domestic market but have gained appreciation and acceptance the world over. The profession has become highly skilled and mechanised though unskilled labour still forms a large part of the workforce.

Gemmology is the science dealing with the study of gemstones. Gemmologists identify the gemstones, sort them and grade them. They also advise jewellers and jewellery designers on the stones' properties, the suitability of particular gemstones with different metals and in settings etc. Their work is mostly scientific and technical and requires great skill . Jewellery designers on the other hand create new designs for specific clients and markets. A jeweller uses art and technology to make, repair or set jewellery using precious metals and stones such as gold and diamonds.

Major tasks

Manufacturing, design and marketing (to an extent) are the three areas where the bulk of activity is concentrated.

Manufacture

Jewellery manufacture involves identification, testing, grinding and polishing of stones before they are sorted and engraved. Samples are made and moulded in rubber moulds and the cavities are filled with wax. Embedding and dewaxing follows and then the molten metal is poured into blast furnaces, after which the final product is created. Most of the leading export houses are mechanised and produce high quality work. However, production for the domestic market is still dependent on skilled manpower. De Beers is one such international company that employs large- scale local labour for diamond cutting and polishing.

Design

Good designs have great marketing prospects; hence the scene for designers is very bright. Designers are often attached to various jewellery export houses. Design houses like Estelle, Tanishq, have become household names in the country while international brands like Bomza, De Beers, Begruet, Versace and Cartier need no introduction. Jewellery design encompasses designing of all accessories that complete the fashion image.

Marketing

Marketing in this field essentially involves the selling and advertising of precious, semi precious and costume jewellery for domestic and international market.

Of stones & chisels

Various institutions in the country offer courses in gemmology and jewellery design. The main objective of these courses is to impart the latest technological know-how in gem cutting, sorting (of stones) grading and valuation and identification of gemstones. Most of these courses are at the graduate level. These short-term courses usually of 3-6 months (some last one year) duration provide up-to-date knowledge of scientific developments to help students become skilled artisans. The basic qualification for these courses is a Secondary school examination. Workers employed in jewellery manufacturing plants have traditionally developed their skills through apprenticeships and informal on- the-job-training. As computer aided design (CAD/ CAM) is increasingly being used in this field, training in these areas can be extremely useful.

The Gemmological Institute of India, at Mumbai offers a number of courses in gems and jewellery. There is a three and a half month course in gemmology (resident programme) as well as a one-year home study programme. A designing course offered here though has a limited number of seats and is for three months again. There are other short- term courses, from two weeks to a month's duration in jewellery casting, pearl identification and bead stringing, a course in diamond grading, identification and valuation. Besides, the National Institute of Fashion Technology (Delhi) conducts a 3-year intensive diploma programme in accessory design that includes jewellery designing.

The cutting edge

A totally employment oriented industry; this is a field where there are openings for different categories of jobs. Jewellery firms employ both artisans and designers. Designers with a background in gemmology can expect good placements with export houses or jewellery designing firms or they can also freelance for both Indian and international markets. One could start a designing business and work independently or one could consider joining a jewellery and accessory designing company. One can specialise too, in accessory designing and design belts, ties, purses, bags and costume jewellery. Fashion gurus like Wendell Rodricks have started jewellery designing in a big way.

The specialists in this field work in various different areas.

Gemmologists

Identify and test the weight, form, size of the precious and semi-precious stones. Treatments to modify colour or appearance of the stones are also undertaken by these specialists.

Gem grinders

Precious stones are ground into required shapes with sophisticated tools and machines available. The stones have to be constantly checked while grinding. Even the minutest of mistakes can render precious stones worthless.

Gem polishers

Polishing wheels are operated either manually or mechanically and the stones are polished as per specifications.

Gem sorters & setters

A gem sorter examines, selects and removes gems from rough stones and cuts them to required sizes. Setters set the jewels according to designs given.

Engravers

An eye for the creative , a refined taste and an aptitude for fine work are essential for this job. The work involves engraving designs or letters on jewellery, using fine chisels and hand tools. Designs are usually engraved or embossed by using dyes. As for research in the field, researchers grow simple crystals from water and synthetic gemstones from complex chemical substances.

Skills

The precise and delicate nature of jewellery work requires finger and hand dexterity, good hand-eye coordination and great concentration.

Artistic ability and fashion consciousness are a plus point. Individual initiative and drive will go a long way in helping to carve a niche in this highly competitive and fast rising industry.

PADMA RAMESH

padma.hyd@careercommunity.co.in