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Old favourites in a new package

The Royal Darbar may have changed the way it looks and feels, but still serves the familiar tastes it has always been famous for

REFURBISHED Royal Darbar at Kankanady has been renovated

Mangalore, fast graduating into a metro, is also experiencing a culinary revolution. Thanks to enterprising hoteliers in the city, gourmands here have access to every cuisine from Far Eastern to American fast food to dishes from Europe and even Latin America. Add to that Moplah delicacies from north Kerala and the parathas of Punjab.

Despite the sea-change taking place, Mangalore still plays host to some classic restaurants that may have undergone a facelift as far as decor and service is concerned but yet have maintained an uncompromising stand on the familiar tastes they are famous for. One such place is Royal Darbar at Kankanady. The newly renovated restaurant has been famous for more than two decades as one of the best places in Mangalore for signature Mughlai dishes.

Masood Teekay, who manages the restaurant, says the best part of the menu is still the Mughlai, tandoor and Punjabi sections where time-tested spice mixes ensure a completely authentic taste. For instance, the kara chick, unique to Royal Darbar, is a spicy and crunchy dry preparation that moves faster than the chef can produce it.

Also famous are the nine types of Mughlai soups — both vegetarian and non-vegetarian, and an impressive array of about 25 items from the tandoor, the pride and joy of Chef Kamal Debnath. For vegetarians, the tandoori platter with cheese, gobi and subzi kababs is worth a try.

Patrons of Royal Darbar will also recommend the biryanis, which they say are unmatched. The Hyderabadi gul-e-gulzar premium biryanis in particular leave a lasting impression on one's palate, and come in generous portions that are large enough to fill two people up comfortably. The roti section is also quite elaborate with a range that is really difficult to choose from.

Among the desserts, the bakalva is definitely the piece de resistance.

The renovated interiors offer ambience typical of a family eatery, with pleasant lighting and aesthetic decor. The restaurant also boasts a well-mannered crew, and a chef who welcomes interactions with individual customers.

M. RAGHURAM

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