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Of cream and gold

Kasavu has morphed into interesting variations, says SUDHA NAMBUDIRI

PHOTO: H. VIBHU

GLITTERING LITEU Traditional kasavu is changing with the times

When Vasco Da Gama bartered gold for spices he would never have imagined that the yellow metal would set the trend for fashion a few centuries later. The amount of gold he and the other colonists dumped on the shores of Kerala, saw the then upper class weaving gold into the mundu and the neriyethu, thus giving birth to what we know today as kasavu.

Identified with celebrations and festivity, kasavu has now transcended borders along with the global Malayali.

Salwar kameez

The traditional vesthi mundu has given way to the sari and the traditional silk pattu pavada replaced by the unbleached `set pavada.' Ever since the salwar kameez became the favourite attire of the young generation it has developed Onam colours: off-white and gold.

Now the kasavu has become broader by the year with the introduction of the colour `kara' along with it. Interestingly it's not just the women's wear that's making waves. Men too can now buy a shirt (branded) matching the double colour kasavu mundu.

Silver kasavu

However, is the golden kasavu making way for the silver kasavu?

Says C. Rajan, manager of Kasavukada in Kochi, "The younger generation is interested in this product. `Velli kasavu' has no gold coating and can be used in a `set sari' or a coloured sari, it goes well with green, black and maroon. The best combination is black and velli kasavu in a `set sari.'"

However, if this is the scene in exclusive shops, many of those who plan to give gifts shop at Hantex, which meets the tastes of a fairly large populace. There is almost a 20 per cent hike in the sales of the off-white Onam wear during these two months.

Balaramapuram, considered the birthplace of the gold kasavu, continues to bring out special designs and patterns almost every week. Most motifs are related to nature like birds and flowers.

Some of their recent designs include scenes from the Ramayana, which are woven on the border and the munthani (pallu). Since motifs are hand-woven, it takes about an hour to make nine motifs on a quarter-metre cloth. The motifs are hand-woven with some having small designs in colour.

Of late, several innovations have been made to the kasavu what with Westerners using it as draperies, tablecloths, lampshades, napkins, pillow covers and even wall hangings. And so the story of the kasavu goes on... . it continues to drape generations in cream and gold, not only dressing them up but now even their homes.

Like all trends that make a comeback, stronger and better, the traditional kasavu too has become haute.

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